7 November 2007 by Sandy Hemphill
Nebbiolo
Some people like to have fun with their wine. Other people have fun with words. The Nebbiolo grape, from the Italian Piedmont region, offers fun for both types of people.
Pronounced “nebby-OH-loh,” the grape’s name is a derivative of the Italian word for foggy. During October harvest time, the mountainous slopes of Piedmont are often heavily shrouded in dense fog. When Nebbiolo grapes are perfect for harvest, a milky white veil forms over the fruit, too, compounding the aura of foggy mystique. Either situation could be the inspiration behind the name.
Nebulous though the grape’s name origin may be, there is nothing hazy about its very rich, very full-bodied presence. These lovely purple grapes with a hint of rose in their coloring produce wines that are robust and hearty, perfect for long-term storage.
You are most likely to find the Nebbiolo grape as wine named after the Piedmont towns most famous for making wine – Barolo and Barbaresco. Both these wines become better with age so they are cellared longer than some other wines before being released for sale. It’s this longer storage period that makes Barolo and Barbaresco a little pricier than many others.
When the wine is young, the fresh fruity flavors of lusciously ripe cherries and plums are apparent. So is the presence of violets and roses. The color is a beautiful clear red.
Once matured, the wine at the edges of your glass will take on a burnt brick color, indicating a deepening of the complex composition of the elements of this delightful wine. The earthy flavors of truffles, flint, and tar are present. Even a hint of smoke can be tasted, bringing us once again back to the foggy slopes of the Piedmont.
To begin the process of making these hearty, robust wines heavily laced with tannins, the juice traditionally stays with the skins in the barrels for as long as three weeks. This extended exposure to the skins helps ensure long-term drinkability but also means it will take longer for the wine to reach a good drinking age.
The alcohol content is high, as much as 13 percent, for these well-aged wines. The rich, complex flavors hold up well when paired with foods of equal presence. Try a glass of Barolo or Barbaresco with hearty dishes of pasta with meat sauce, pizza, a many-layered lasagna, or even a zesty paella.
When choosing which to buy, remember that the Barbaresco is generally a bit lighter and milder while the Barolo is more bold and robust. Modern taste preferences and winemaking and blending techniques have blurred the line between the two somewhat but, as a rule, the Barolo is bigger.
Look for 5-year-old bottles of either wine, but remember that 10 years is probably better. Of course, the older a wine is when purchased, the bigger the price tag. These two Piedmontese wines are great choices to buy when they are young and affordable, and then hold for several years before enjoying.
And remember, there is nothing at all foggy, wispy, or nebulous about the luscious, highly spirited wines that come from the delicious Nebbiolo grape.